A day oot in The Borders… 6 things to do in Upper Tweeddale
Fancy going somewhere a bit off the beaten path this summer? Why not head for the hills of Upper Tweeddale and discover the beauty, tranquillity and surprises that lie at the heart of this landscape? Upper Tweeddale is a National Scenic Area (one of only two in The Borders, along with the Eildon Hills) and has a sparse population, spread over a large, rural area which for this blog includes the catchments of the Lyne and Tweed, upstream of their meeting just outside Peebles. It also boasts the newly reopened Wee Crook Cafe, a great base to start your adventure or make a pit stop. Find out more about the Wee Crook below. By it’s nature this is a pretty outdoorsy blog, perfect for summer adventures. I have included a map at the end, to help you orientate yourself on your adventure :)
Hike the high tops - Broad Law, Broughton Heights, The (quiet) Pentlands
Upper Tweeddale is home to The Borders highest hills, including Broad Law which is the highest ground in any direction for many miles. A hike up here can be long and tough (from Tweeddale) or short and straightforward (from Megget Stane). Check out this blog from a couple of years back to find out more about The Borders muckle hill..
Broad Law — Tweed Valley Blogger | TVB Tours | Scottish Borders
A wee hill range with loads of options and a classic round can be found at Broughton Heights. There is a conveniently provided walkers car park near Broughton Place which gives you a head start, from here you go through a gate and into classic Borders hill walking territory. The names of the hills here are evocative of the ancient, Brythonic past of this area - Penvalla and Trahenna.
The Pentland Hills are Edinburgh’s hill range, and as such are very busy. Don’t let that put you off the main peaks and reservoirs, there’s adventure gold in them there hills, but if you want something a bit more Borders themed (i.e. quieter) then let me present the southern end of the range for your consideration. Out with the Regional Park designated area you can find a great circular hike in the hills around Baddingsgill Reservoir, near West Linton Golf Course. A small parking area is available near the farm, then a round of hills and a crossing of the evocatively named Thieves Road, over the Cauldstane Slap. If this is still too busy for you, then head even further south into The Pentlands, towards Dunsyre. But that’s for another day…
As is so often the case, all these routes can be found on the indispensable Walk Highlands website.
Tweed Love - Tweeds Well, Tweedsmuir, Tweed Valley Canoe Trail
Upper Tweeddale is of course defined by the River Tweed. Visit Tweeds Well, the boggy collection of springs, burns and swamp that gives birth to the River Tweed. It isn’t a whole lot to look at, but is the start of a wonderful journey, and within a few metres you can see the infant Tweed gathering pace as it heads towards the first settlement on its journey, Tweedsmuir. This small hamlet boasts the first public crossing of the river, giving access to Fruid and Talla Reservoirs. There is an unexpected rocky linn under the bridge, well worth a stop on a road trip, and the village Kirk, situated high on a grassy mound, is one of the most picturesque in Tweeddale.
Further downstream, as the River passes Stobo, you reach the start of the recently opened Tweed Valley Canoe Trail. There has been quite a lot of coverage for this exciting new trail, and its crying out for you to try it for yourself! Hire a guide or take your own canoe down the river, savouring The Borders at a different pace. Find out more on the official website.
A Tale of Three Gardens - Dawyck, Stobo’s Japanese Water Gardens & Little Sparta
Dawyck Botanic Gardens is 65 acres of seasonal goodness with snowdrops in later winter, bluebells in spring and rhododendrons in summer. Throw in the stunning autumnal hues and you’ve got a garden for all seasons! Part of the Royal Botanic Garden of Edinburgh family, Dawyck is classy and well tended. They also have a very good café and visitor centre on site, making it a highly recommended spot for a summer day trip.
Stobo Castle is a place which requires little introduction. As Scotland’s first and finest destination spa it has been a relaxing haven in the Peeblesshire hills for decades. Long before the Winyard family turned Stobo into a spa, there were relaxing and zen inducing Japanese Water Gardens, which you can visit to this day. Please be mindful of the peaceful surroundings if you visit this special place.
I am cheating a wee bit with the next one as Little Sparta is across the regional line into South Lanarkshire, but its such a cool spot and relatively unknown so I really wanted to include it. The garden was the work of the late artist Ian Hamilton Findlay and the works included in it cover a vast array of topics, including poetry, classicism and war. I don’t really want to say too much, I just think you should go along and see it for yourself. Findlay gave the garden over to a Trust just before he died and they have done a wonderful job of maintaining both the artwork and the garden, which also includes open moorland. I try to avoid the cliched phrase ‘a hidden gem’ in my blogs, but Little Sparta would certainly fit that bill. The garden is only open during the summer months of June to August so get it added to your sunny bucketlist!
Tales of The Borders - Talla, Drochil, Merlin & More
As a tour guide, I find Upper Tweeddale to be one of the most fertile places for storytelling, these hills are steeped in tales. I recommend hiring a local guide to bring these stories to life (funny that!) One compelling story revolves around the construction of Talla Reservoir, it’s railway and the unfortunate workers involved. A memorial stone at Tweedsmuir Kirk commemorates those who perished, and their story should be told.
The ruins of Drochil Castle are evocative and are a decaying testament to James Douglas, 4th Earl of Morton and Regent of Scotland. A man of great power who had the castle built - and was executed before its completion. The castle is on private farmland and can be visited but please show respect to the farm and people who live and work there by parking responsibly and taking great care around the dangerous ruins.
The entire region is teeming with legends of Merlin. As you cross Merlindale Bridge into Drumelzier, the names hint at the influence of this legendary figure among these hills. With everything from the so called dark ages, distinguishing between reality and myth can be quite challenging, but by following the Merlin Trail, you can explore sites linked to him and form your own interpretations. It’s also worth stopping at Stobo Kirk on your travels. Here you will find one of Scotland’s most historic Kirks, including a fascinating stained glass window featuring Merlin and Kentigern (St. Mungo). The Kirk is near to the John Buchan Way, speaking of which…
The Talla Reservoir Memorial
Tweedsmuir Kirk
Drochil Castle
Overlooking Lyne Water
Merlin & Mungo
Stobo Kirk
In the footsteps of a giant… - The John Buchan Way
John Buchan is an important figure in this part of the world. His childhood spent roaming the hills near Broughton fired his imagination, helping him become the best selling author of thrillers such as ‘The 39 Steps’ and his masterpiece “Witch Wood” (set in a fictionalised version of Upper Tweeddale). You can experience the landscape that thrilled him so much by walking the John Buchan Way, a 14 mile long linear route from Broughton to Peebles. Summer walkers can round off their exertions with a visit to the excellent museum dedicated to Buchan, found in the Chambers Institution on Peebles High Street. In here you’ll learn about the man, his Border connections, literary success and wider achievements in politics and diplomacy. I walked the whole way a few years back in winter, you can read my experiences in this blog.
Winter wonderland on the John Buchan Way — Tweed Valley Blogger | TVB Tours | Scottish Borders
Cafes & Beer - Wee Crook, Whitmuir, Broughton Ales
It’s been an outdoorsy, energetic blog so we will need some refreshment. It’s been a delight these past two years to see The Wee Crook open at the site of The Crook Inn. The Crook was a former coaching inn, frequented by literary greats (as well as the local worthies), but sadly closed in 2006. It’s now in community hands and there is hope that it will open again. In the meanwhile, The Wee Crook is filling the gap admirably. An old out building which has been restored and transformed into a café with regular events. You’ll find them on Facebook, a great addition to the area who are open to the public as of 24 May 2024.
A bit further up the A701, between Romannobridge and Lamancha, you’ll find Whitmuir Café. The café is based on a working farm and also does takeaways. There’s a plant sales centre next door and lovely wee woodland walks. Anytime I have been it’s been a busy, buzzy place with great coffee and food.
Finally, I have to talk about one of my very favourite things in the world - Broughton Ales!! Founded in 1979 by James Collins and Sir David Younger, it was the first of it’s kind in Scotland - an independent, craft brewery. The brewery has changed hands since, but still produces quality, premium Scottish beer. My personal favourite being Old Jock, a strong, smooth ale that is perfect all year round. They also produce IPAs, lagers and stouts. You can pick up Broughton Ales direct from the brewery shop, online or at supermarkets and specialist shops in Peebles.
I hope this blog has made you think a wee bit outside the box, and consider Upper Tweeddale for an adventure this summer. If you have, there’s every chance I’ll see you there…
Image Credits: @tweedvalleyblogger
