Cosy Pubs and Autumn Walks

I was slightly surprised recently when reading a post on Facebook published by one of our local, Borders newspapers. The headline was ‘Great Scottish walks that end at some of the country’s best pubs’. On reading the article it was clear that it was aimed at a national audience and there were no walks or pubs based in the region the newspaper covers. Now, I’m not daft - I am media savvy enough to know that social media posts are usually managed at a central level for newspapers, especially local ones part of a wider group. So I guess it wasn’t that surprising that the Borders had been left out. It did however annoy me - local press should be highlighting great walks and places to cosy up afterwards, and we’ve plenty of both in The Borders! I therefore resolved to use my modest platform to recommend some great short hikes and pubs you can cosy up in as we move into the darker months.

Small disclaimer first - these are just suggestions for walks, not routes or maps. If you go on the walks, you should have a map, a plan and the ability to get yourself round safely. Also, please drink responsibly. That out of the way, lets have a look at three great Borders Pub walks to whet your appetite..

The Border Hotel & Pennine Way - Kirk Yetholm

Kirk Yetholm is a quaint wee village, right on the English Border. Famous for it’s gypsy heritage, it is also the northern terminus of Britain’ most popular long distance hike, The Pennine Way. The Border Hotel on the village green is the official start/end point (usually the latter) and does great food and a very decent pint. A great spot to end this circular walk, and an Inn with serious history - over 270 years old! The walk goes south from Yetholm, following the Pennine Way into the wonderful Cheviots. This link from the always excellent Walk Highlands gives you the route to follow.

Things to look out for:

You’ll follow the Border fence for quite a while, try walking with one foot in Scotland and one in England. Then, three seconds later, get bored of that and walk like a normal person.

Look out for the shepherds shed with the Tunnocks Wafer design on it! A sure way of telling weary Pennine Way walkers that this is Scottish soil.

Wild goats - you’ll smell them first…

Listen out for the sound of distant gunfire - The Otterburn army ranges are just a few miles away.

The Cheviot Hills

Credit: VisitScotland / David N Anderson

The Bridge Inn, Neidpath Castle, The Viaduct - Peebles

Ah, an old favourite of the blog (it also featured on my winter walks post last year). I am an unashamed fan of this walk, leaving from Haylodge Park and taking the riverside path underneath the 10 feet thick walls of Neidpath Castle towards the railway viaduct. The Walk Highlands route then continues towards Auld Manor Brig and is a great route. If you want something a bit more daring you could cross the viaduct and make for the railway tunnel which is just under half a mile long and adds a great bit of excitement to the walk. Either option is good and both will take you back towards the town centre of Peebles.

Peebles old motto was Peebles for Pleasure - it could also be Peebles for Pubs as there are a lot of them, each with their own qualities. This is an unashamedly personal Blog however, so I would recommend the Bridge Inn or Trust as locals know it. A great selection of beer and good patter in the bar. You could then go on to visit one of the other 6 or 7 pubs and have a grand old time in the county town!

Things to look out for:

The ruined wing of Neidpath Castle. Don’t let any locals tell you it was destroyed by Oliver Cromwell - he had a go at it, but it was the neglect of William Douglas, 4th Duke of Queensberry which did much of the damage.

Incredible stone work on the railway viaduct.

If you go through the tunnel, take a headtorch and prepare yourself for the section where no light can be seen at either end…

The view of The River Tweed and Tweed Green as you head back into the centre of Peebles. As picturesque a town green as you’ll see anywhere - a view I think locals take for granted a bit.

This might sound like I am taking the piss but if you do visit the Bridge Inn then the urinals are something else. Seriously. I cannot comment on the ladies but the Victoriana on display in the gents is first rate. There you go - you don’t get that on Lonely Planet.

Neidpath Castle in Winter

Credit: Mark Sansom

Eildon Hills and The Ship Inn - Melrose

Eildon Hill (or the Eildons as most call it) is a Borders icon. It’s triple top can be seen seemingly from anywhere in the region, it is shrouded in myth (Thomas The Rhymer, King Arthur), steeped in history (Celtic forts, Roman invaders) and is as popular and accessible a walk as you’ll find in The Borders. Don’t let it’s popularity fool you into thinking it’s easy - a circuit of all three will have you well and truly in need of a glass of sherry at The Ship Inn back in Melrose. As ever, Walk Highlands have an excellent route you can follow. It’s a perfect half day walk at any time of the year, but does have a special feel in winter. Especially if Melrose are playing a rugby game when you get into town, and woodsmoke drifts on the breeze. Apologies, I am piling it on a bit thick here… The fact is however, this walk is textbook Borders and how this didn’t make it into the newspaper article I mentioned at the top is anyone’s guess! My recommendation for a post hike drink is The Ship Inn, just off the town square though there are a number of great pubs and eateries in this well heeled Borders toon.

Things to look out for:

The views, The Borderlands open up in front of you from the Mid Hill in particular. Stunning.

St. Cuthbert’s Way. You’ll follow a wee bit of this really good cross Border long distance path. It’s named after the famous Northumbrian Saint who first entered the history books at Old Melrose, near Eildon Hill.

Rhymers Stone - the sport where True Thomas of Ercildoune met the Queen of the Fairies, and was given the gift of prophecy. One of the numerous fairy stories and legends of the Borders - even our best football team are The Fairies…

Melrose Abbey. Even in ruin it has romance. Local Author Sir Walter Scott has some advice for anyone wishing to best view the Abbey: “If thou woulds't view fair Melrose aright, Go visit it by the pale moon-light”.

Eildon Mid Hill

@tweedvalleyblogger

And finally, BYOB…

If all else fails, a dram in a hipflask or, if you are feeling particularly bold, a G & T in a proper glass with ice and a slice (see below!) A wee drink in the hills is a wonderful thing, and as ever it’s all about moderation...

I hope this blog has been a bit of fun, it was designed to be a wee bit of a tongue in cheek response to the local paper’s generic online output but do let me know if you try any of the walks. And if you want to share your own suggestions then please do - let me know which of your favourites I’ve missed. See you on the hills, or perhaps in the pub.