A day oot in The Borders… 6 things to do on The Berwickshire Coast
Summer is just around the corner, so its time to start daydreaming about your coastal getaway. Personally, I adore the North Sea coast of the UK, particularly from East Lothian to Northumberland. Nestled amidst this stretch of coastline is The Berwickshire Coast, a maritime gem which stakes a case to be the highlight of any trip to The Borders. The historic county of Berwickshire often (I feel) goes unnoticed in Borders tourism guides, which is surprising given its stunning coastal and countryside landscapes that rival any in Scotland. A journey along this 30-mile stretch of coastline offers a thrilling experience. Couple this with some exploring of the villages and towns inland in Berwickshire and you’ll have a trip to remember. In today's blog, I will share my favourite highlights to inspire your own coastal adventure!
PS. I have called this blog ‘A day oot in The Borders’, there’s no way you could do this in a day - take a week! It’s just a catchy title for a series of blogs ;)
Day at The Beach - Coldingham Sands
What’s a coastal holiday without a day at the beach. Coldingham is one of the cleanest and safest in the country (with lifeguards on patrol in the summer months). A natural bay gives good conditions for paddleboards or kayaking and it’s easy to spend a whole day here in the hot summer. Worth noting that it can get very busy in the summer, with two large holiday parks nearby, so early starts or summer evenings can be the best time to enjoy a bit of peace, if that’s what you are after.
Hike through natural wonders - St. Abb’s Head
I believe St. Abb’s Head National Nature Reserve to be the jewel in the crown of The Borders. It has a rugged, remote feel despite being close to the A1. The dramatic cliffs are home to thousands of seabirds in the summer months, a site (and noise!) to behold. In winter Seal pups are born on the beaches here, making the reserve a year round destination. The reserve is managed by the National Trust for Scotland who provide car parking facilities and waymarked paths. My advice is to stick to the paths - these cliffs can be dangerous. If you want to experience all the highlights of the reserve then follow this WalkHighlands route. Oh, and while you are here you really should visit the picture postcard village of St. Abbs itself.
Discover world famous geology - Siccar Point
The cradle of the modern study of geology, it was here in 1788 that Geologist and Berwickshire farmer James Hutton noted nearly vertical sedimentary rocks of Silurian age were covered unconformably by a younger sequence of red sandstone. He was able to use this visible evidence to understand the enormity of the age of the earth, with rocks depositing, folding, eroding and further depositing - with a huge gap of approx. 65 million years (the unconformity) separating the two types of rock clearly visible here. The concept of deep time, of the earth being hundreds of millions of years old was born here - and was not without controversy given Biblical scholars had the earth at about 6,000 years old. Imagine how this must have felt for Hutton, staring into what his companion Playfair called “the abyss of time”. It’s no exaggeration to say this may be the most important geological site on the planet, but is just one of the many geological wonders of this stretch of coastland. Getting to Siccar Point involves a walk along the excellent Berwickshire Coastal Path. I suggest parking at Cove or Cockburnspath and enjoying the 1.5 hour stroll. As at St. Abbs, the land is steep and potentially hazardous - you can view the rocks safely from the main path, but if you do decide to get down and lay your hands on the unconformity it’s entirely at your own risk! Watch this excellent video to understand more about the Siccar Point unconformity.
The best Fish and Chips - Eyemouth
Eyemouth is Berwickshire’s largest town and has all the visitor amenities you’d expect including amusements, cafes, B&B’s etc. It is now the Eastern end of the Kirkpatrick C2C cycle route, sure to bring even more visitors to this bustling harbour town (see the clip below to learn more). Above all though Eyemouth is famous for fish and chips! I can’t see past Giacopazzis for haddock and chips, followed by one of their super gelatos. The shop is located at the harbour, so a short stroll round to devour your goodies at the town beach is a perfect way to end a summers day in Berwickshire.
Explore ‘The Merse’- Allanton Inn and Duns
Berwickshire is more than just the coast and the quiet lanes and roads inland are well worth exploring. The ancient county (which of course has been minus it’s original county town from more than 500 years!) is bounded by the River Tweed to the South, and the Lammermuir hills to the north. In between is the fertile farmland of The Merse. A day trip you will enjoy begins with a morning at the Jim Clark Motorsport Museum in Duns. Jim Clark was a superb racing driver, twice Formula 1 World Champion as well as various other international accolades. He never lost sight of his Berwickshire routes and after his tragic death in 1968 his body was returned to Chirnside, where he lived and farmed. The museum was upgraded a few years ago and will appeal to all, regardless of a love of motorsport. After you’ve taken the time to explore Duns (see if you can find Wojtek, the Soldier Bear!) you can head for a spot of lunch and it doesn’t get any better than the Allanton Inn, just a short drive away. If you picture the perfect country pub, then you’ll not be far wrong. Throw in a foodies dream of a menu and the most passionate of hosts and you cant go wrong.
Dive into history - the whole county!
Regular readers will know I am passionate about my Scottish history and Berwickshire has it in spades - in fact you can hardly move for something of interest. Here are just a selection of the historical gems of Berwickshire, spanning thousands of years…
The ruins of Fast Castle, perched precariously on the cliffs. The Union Chain Bridge, oldest of it’s kind in the world, crossing the Tweed into England. The unusual Tithe Barn at Foulden. Ayton Castle. The stunning fishing hamlets and harbours of Cove and Lower Burnmouth. The largest Broch in the South of Scotland. The Norman Arch at Edrom, stunning carving you would expect to see in a cathedral not a Berwickshire graveyard! Paxton House, and it’s Georgian splendour. The memorials to the Fishing disaster of 1881, told in detail at Eyemouth Musuem. Gunsgreen House in Eyemouth. Coldingham Priory. James Small, inventor of the swing plough and agricultural reformer.
There is something for everyone in Berwickshire and on it’s coast, get it on your go to list today. TVB Tours can plan your perfect guided Berwickshire itinerary - click here to find out more.
Image Credits: Kayaking , St. Abb’s Head, Coldingham Village: South of Scotland Destination Alliance/Duncan Ireland. Kirkpatrick C2C video: South of Scotland Destination Alliance. Coldingham Sands: VisitScotland / Kenny Lam St. Abb’s & Siccar Point videos: YouTube