The wonders of star gazing in winter
Stargazing is a year-round activity that never ceases to amaze those who are curious enough to look up at the night sky. As winter bites, the crisp, cold air provides the perfect backdrop for exploring the dark skies and the treasures they hold. With longer nights, the opportunity for a winter adventure arises, without having to spend a fortune or lose sleep.
While I, like many of you, am an amateur when it comes to astronomy, my enthusiasm for the heavens is unwavering. I hope this sense of curiosity and discovery inspires my readers to join me in exploring the mysteries of the night sky. For those living in cities, I urge you to seek out true darkness, where the stars shine bright in astonishing numbers. In Edinburgh, you might see around a hundred stars on a clear night, but in the South of Scotland, you could gaze upon thousands. The allure of the night sky is undeniable, and we should embrace the opportunity to explore it.
Star Trails, Langshawburn
Photo Credit: Mark Gamblin Photography
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to stargaze in the Scottish Borders? Although Northumberland and Galloway Forest Park are often promoted as the go-to destinations for stargazing, why not the Borders? Light pollution is a concern, especially looking north towards the Central Belt, however this region shares the same skies as its neighbouring areas, so why not seek out dark skies from my doorstep? With that in mind, I decided to search for a spot further into the quiet south and found myself on an adventure along the B709. This remote 45-mile stretch of road took me past quaint farms and strung out villages, ultimately leading me to Langholm. If you're looking for a winter adventure, I encourage you to follow what I propose we call Scotland's Dark Skies Trail and explore the beautiful scenery of the Scottish Borders and Dumfriesshire.
The adventure begins…
Part 1 - A Moonlit Interlude
For optimal stargazing, it's important to avoid a full moon. During a new moon phase, you'll be able to see fainter objects, like star clusters and galaxies. However, a full moon can itself provide a unique experience, and is a great way to ease into the world of dark skies. Recently, I accompanied my sister, dad, and friends on their full moon swim at St. Mary's Loch, our first stop on the trail. Although the 7 degree water temperature was unappealing to me, watching the full moon peek through the clouds and their headlamps bobbing in the icy loch was a treat. In winter, St. Mary's is an excellent spot for stargazing, even if you don't want to get into the loch. Our trail then leads up to Megget Reservoir Dam, where you can park safely and enjoy the tranquillity and low light pollution. Go Stargazing UK recommends Megget as an ideal location for viewing the heavens, but notes that the cluster of huge hills to the north (including Broad Law) doesn't make it the best spot for Aurora watchers. Finally, we return to the Gordon Arms and cross Berrybush to the Ettrick Valley to continue the trail.
St. Mary’s Loch
What 3 Words: ///modem.crispy.dispose
Megget Reservoir Dam
What 3 Words: ///fillings.jugs.patrolled
Full Moon Swim, St. Mary’s Loch
Andromeda, Cygnus and St. Mary’s Loch
Photo Credit: South of Scotland Destination Alliance/Ben Bush
Part 2 - Stargazing in Ettrick, and a nod to The Shepherd
As I drop into Ettrick, I can't help but think of the famous poet and writer, James Hogg, also known as The Ettrick Shepherd. I imagine he would have spent his long winter evenings stargazing, as his inquisitive mind revelled in the wonders of the heavens. It's comforting to know that, because of the nature of constellations, the night sky looks much the same today as it did when he was alive over 200 years ago. While in the area, consider visiting his memorial and grave (park up at Boston Hall). Alternatively, continue on our trail by turning off just before Ettrick village and heading towards the Ettrick Marshes Car Park, located beside the Tima Water. This location has been recognized by Go Stargazing as an excellent spot for stargazing. From the car park, follow the trails into the Gamescleuch wood, where you can enjoy the peace and tranquillity of Ettrick with its magnificent night skies.
Boston Hall
What 3 Words: ///trifling.rods.directive
Ettrick Marshes Car Park
What 3 Words: ///heartless.nozzles.remotes
Part 3 - Journey towards Eskdalemuir
Our journey follows the Tima Water, tracing its upstream path through a thick forest with just the occasional isolated farmhouse. The man-made Loch Tima signals a change in surroundings as we cross the watershed and enter Eskdale and Dumfries & Galloway. Here, the landscape transforms into hill farms with more open views. Our route takes us between Foulbog and Muckle Knowe, quintessentially South of Scotland names! Soon enough, we reach Eskdalemuir Seismological Recording Station, which has been operating for over 60 years, since the height of the Cold War. This Station can monitor nuclear testing and naturally occurring earthquakes using a complex array of underground seismometers. A few miles further is its sister building, the Eskdalemuir Observatory. This observatory records everything from rainfall to atmospheric pollution. I suggest stopping at the large layby across the road from the Station for a safe viewing experience. The Station and Observatory were built in this lonely valley in the centre of Britain to take advantage of the isolation. But if you think this spot is isolated, you ain’t seen nothing yet…
Laghshawburn Pod and Aurora
Photo Credit: Mark Gamblin Photography
As we journey past Fingland, the trees begin to close in once again and we cross the River White Esk. At this point, there is a track that takes you to the heart of Eskdalemuir Forest. Four miles up the path, you'll reach Langshawburn, a remote farm located in its secluded valley and the home of the Dark Skies Glamping Pod. Photographer Mark Gamblin runs this pod and has generously supplied me with some of his stunning photos for this blog - thank you Mark! In 2024, Mark will introduce Dark Skies photography holidays, which would make an unforgettable experience for anyone looking to learn how to capture these incredible images. Click here to learn more about this new venture, and thanks again to Mark for the use of his images.
For the proposed trail, we don't recommend heading to Langshawburn without a booking. You may get lost in the labyrinthine forest, and Mark's expert directions would be required to find your way out so stay on the B709 towards the imposing, yet magical Samye Ling Centre. The largest Buddhist Monastery in Western Europe, it has been an integral part of the area since the 1960s. A visit during the day is a must as it's one of the South of Scotland's greatest treasures, both as a tourist attraction and primarily a place of worship and peace. Samye Ling is part of a continuum of people drawn to this place, from the earliest times and hilltop settlers to modern Geographers, Pilgrims and Stargazers - Eskdale has long and magical appeal.
Eskdalemuir Seismological Recording Station
What 3 Words: ///linguists.denoting.crunch
Part 4 - Prehistoric Eskdale
Upon arriving at Eskdalemuir, a small village with around 250 inhabitants, we were faced with a decision. Should we proceed straight ahead to explore Castle O'er Forest via the west side of the White Esk, or take a left turn towards two stone circles? Both roads are part of the Eskdale Prehistoric Trail, which connects numerous remarkable archaeological sites and eventually forms a loop near the village of Benthpath. To avoid navigating Castle O'er Forest and its iron age fort in the dark, I suggest we cross the river and make our way to the stone circles, staying on the B709.
We'll begin with The Loupin' Stanes, the first stone circle. The locals used to jump between the stones, hence the name (to loup is to jump in Scots) but I wouldn't recommend it! A small parking area is available, and a short walk through the field will lead us to the stones, which are only around 100 meters away from the road. The White Esk's haughland/floodplain creates an open space, making this spot perfect for stargazing.
The second stone circle, Girdle Stanes, is located half a mile away from the first. It's older and slightly more eerie than The Loupin' Stanes. Similarly, you can park at the main road and follow a path down towards the stones. This part of Eskdale is really quite special, and engaging in a night-time adventure only adds to the feeling of being connected to the ancient past.
The Loupin’ Stanes
What 3 Words: ///butternut.ignore.clattered
The Girdle Stanes
What 3 Words: ///composed.unleashed.native
Part 5 - Here Come Langholm
Our journey continues after visiting the Standing Stones, driving across a forested hillside before meeting up with both the Castle O'er road and the River Esk (White and Black Esk have combined by this point). The drive through Eskdale is delightful, with Benthpath (or Benty) and it’s fine Kirk across the valley and Langholm in the distance. Langholm is an endearing town surrounded by hills and a meeting point for roads and rivers. The town has a unique history, being arguably the most ‘Borders’ town yet not in the 'Scottish Borders'. Our last stop is just outside of town on the A7 north, where we turn off for Newcastleton, a high, moorland road that is home to the Tarras Valley nature reserve and the MacDiarmid Memorial. The memorial, shaped like a book, is a fitting tribute to Langholm's own Hugh McDiarmid, a noted poet. We'll stop at the memorial to admire the stunning Southern Scottish dark skies from a wonderful moorland vantage point before heading for home, filled with the excitement of a night of adventure under the stars.
MacDiarmid Memorial
What 3 Words: ///standing.reply.cropping
MacDiarmid Memorial, Langholm
Photo Credit: South of Scotland Destination Alliance/Duncan Ireland
Why wait? Grab some pals, choose a crisp and clear evening, and take on this trail. You don't need a telescope to experience this unforgettable winter adventure. Of course, this is just one way to explore the Dark Skies of Southern Scotland. There are several online resources and clubs available to guide you on your dark skies journey. Check out these links for more information, and get in touch with your own stargazing tips…
Recent Peeblesshire News article about stargazing opportunities in Peebles
South of Scotland Destination Alliance - Discover South of Scotland’s Dark Skies
Moffat - Scotland’s dark sky town
And for those wishing to go a wee bit further afield, the Kielder Observatory hosts a year round programme of events just across the Border.
Happy stargazing!
